military, surfing, dictatorship, holy war | Daily Me

yesterday there were surfers swarming all over the island… the surf ahead of the storm… down at the entry to dickens farm preserve a god like, blond haired, youthful surfer dude with dreadlocks… surfs up?… oh yah!… i have never surfed, but through the beach boys i feel, like many americans do, some nostalgia for surfer culture… perhaps an if only kinda nostalgia…